November recipe from Françoise Porcher
This recipe earned me the 1er Prize at the Fête de la Confiture de la Chapelle-des-Fougeretz, in Ille-et-Vilaine, September 19, 2002.
1 kg 600 of pears Ripe but firm Guyot, julienned
1 lime, 1 untreated lemon
1 small glass of Pineau des Charentes
700 g granulated sugar
Pear julienne flavored with lime, flambéed with Pineau des Charentes
- I squeeze half the lemon and pour it into the bowl of my scale and cup of mineral water.
- I peel my pears. I cut them in julienne on the big side of the cheese grater. I mix to avoid any oxidation. I pass part of the juice from the pears through a nylon sieve to wet the bottom of my copper basin.
- I prepare my sugar syrup. When it is ripe, clear and syrupy, I pour my pear julienne in small quantities so as not to cool my syrup.
- I zest my lime on top. I mix gently so as not to make my julienne a mush.
- As soon as the pears are candied, I cut off a third of the lemon and squeeze the value of a teaspoon. Cooking takes about 25 minutes.
At this point, I pour the Pineau des Charentes into the stainless steel ladle, which I let heat in the center, above my jam. I water it in circles and flames quickly. I turn off the gas and taste. I lift the wooden spoon, the fourth pearl drop. (remains stuck to the spoon).
The “Pear Julienne flavored with lime flambéed with Pineau des Charentes” is perfect. You would think you were eating a good grandmother's pear tart.
Surprising, it will not last long in the hands of gourmet gourmets. It is eaten almost with a teaspoon for dessert. It is better to plan the toast, before tasting it with a spoon because I do not answer for anything.
Another homemade creation, of which I am proud because it is the consecration of years and hours in front of my stove and my copper basin.
It can be enjoyed for dessert under vanilla ice cream and lime sorbet, decorating your plate with lime slices and served with a small glass of Pineau des Charentes, well chilled.
Tip of the month for November
Gelling agent called "agar-agar"
It can be bought in organic stores. In Brittany, you can buy it from food algae distributors. Indeed, "agar-agar" is a gelling agent extracted from food algae. The Malaysians developed the technique for its dehydration, or the name "agar-agar". It seems expensive to buy, a teaspoon (or 4 g) is enough per kilo of fruit. It can also be found in Asian grocery stores, in fiber, less expensive to buy, but requires preparation. The fibers are wetted with water and heated while whisking to obtain a homogeneous apparatus. A few spoonfuls are enough to help the jam set. It is a natural product and does not give any particular taste to your jam. There is only one way to use a gelling agent wisely. It will always be added on hot fruit. When the fruits have melted and given their juice.
I mix well from the bottom to the edges. Very quickly, I observe that the fruit juice gelates on the edges and on the handle of my wooden spoon. Only then do I add the sugar to the fruit. I mix, the sugar melts, I bring to a boil. Bubbles are rarer, a dull veil forms on the surface. I'm doing the cold plate test.
The cold plate test involves putting the jam in the fridge (cold plate) at the end of cooking. It is enough to make slip a few drops of the jam of the spoon to realize the good grip of the jam. The index finger on a drop and you lift your finger, the jam lengthens, it's good for potting.
It goes through different stages: I start by pouring 20 cl of water and I pour the kilo of sugar, spreading it on the bottom of the basin. I wait a moment for the sugar to start to melt. I turn on the heat low, I lift to wet all my sugar. I let it cook without stirring too much because the sugar would crystallize. First, the syrup boils, making big bubbles, it is at 105 ° degrees, then the temperature rises to 112 ° degrees. It is then more and more limpid, almost transparent. I do not leave any longer, it might caramelize. It is clear and syrupy, it is perfect. To reassure myself, I dip my wooden spoon and raise it 25 cm above the basin. A sweet trickle drips then drops, the fourth drop should bead. Your sugar syrup is ready for your recipe.
Sugar syrup is especially used in traditional orange marmalade. This process also makes it possible to make jams where the fruit bathes in a translucent softness. It allows to cook fruits which have difficulty in setting. In addition, the fruits remain whole and do not mash because they are seared in the boiling sugar syrup.
Françoise Porcher (about the author and his book)